Saskia Prüm visits from the Mosel Valley (Germany)

Saskia Prüm, winemaker at S.A. Prüm, with Jens Strecker, owner of Portalis Wines in Seattle
Saskia Prüm holds an honored position for us at Portalis. She is the first German winemaker to do a tasting at our shop since we opened in 2003, and it was well worth the wait. She was lovely. She told me a little about the history of the winery … Located in the village of Wehlen (southwest Germany) near the one of the most famous vineyards in the Mosel Valley, the Wehlener Sonnenuhr, the estate has been in her family since her great grandfather began in 1911. The estate flourished under father, who began running the estate in 1971, and as of 2005, it has been in Saskia’s hands. She said that she knew from an early age that this was her calling. With a smile, she said she had probably participated in her first wine tasting at age 9. She received a Diploma of Engineering in Winemaking from the Technical University in Geisenheim. After that she completed a series of internships in Pfalz/Reingau, Baden & Alto Adige. Her time in Alto Adige must have been particularly interesting, 1) because it was a huge 200 hector co-op compared with the 16.5 hectars of the S.A. Prüm estate and 2) she got to go hang out in Northern Italy, after all.
Americans so often have a block against white wine that’s not dry, but I can’t encourage you enough to open your experience to these wines as German Riesling is considered some of the finest white wine in the world (and S.A. Prüm is an excellent example of this style of wine). It’s a thinker’s white wine … beautiful fruit flavors with an amazing acidity that off-sets the slight ending sweetness of the wine. It’s refreshing as a stand alone sipper, but Riesling also rates as the most versatile white wine to pair with food. The acidity as well as the fact that it’s not dry allows it to pair beautifully with appetizers, fish, shellfish, chicken, pork and especially cheeses. It can also handle sweeter & spicier flavors (perfect for Asian cuisines) and the tanginess and heat of Middle Eastern & Mexican dishes.
Here’s what we tasted with Saskia, as well as her commentary on the wines:
S.A. Prüm 2007 Essence Riesling $12.50/case $10
This wine has a spiciness to the fruit which is lovely, off-set by beautiful acidity. Lighter than the next wine, it is a beautiful sipping wine.
S.A. Prüm 2003 Bernkasteler Lay $39/case $31.50
This wine has a little more body and a little more yellow in the color. It has lovely grapefruity flavors and surprisingly, Saskia suggested pairing this wine with a red meat such as lamb.
S.A. Prüm 2007 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Kabinett $24/case $19.20
This Riesling comes from the most famous vineyard in the Mosel, the Wehlener Sonnenuhr. As a Kabinett, this wine is sweeter than the first two, but pleasantly so with the tingling acidity off-setting the sweetness beautifully.
S.A. Prüm 2003 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese $39/case $31.50
Auslese, from a selection of highly ripened grapes, is sweeter still than the Kabinett, and moves into the dessert wine category. Try this with your favorite artisan blue cheese, for an amazing salty sweet combo. You can enjoy this wine now, but Saskia said that you can lay it down for up to 20 years.
Contributor: Julie Howe
Add comment June 3, 2009
Food+Wine: On the Menu … Frog Legs
It’s traditional French bistro fare with Chef Tracey’s most recent addition to the menu. Her art for preparing the frog legs is similar to brining. She marinates them in buttermilk, Worcestershire sauce & tobasco. Frogs legs can be tough, but this marinating process makes the meat tender. After about a day and a half in the marinade, the meat is so tender that it flakes when fried. In France, you’d most likely have your frog legs sautéed, but Chef Tracey is serving these frog legs fried with a side of whole-grain mustard-tarragon potato salad for a nice seasonal twist with some American flair.
This dish pairs beautifully with a broad range of wines, including white, rosé and more medium-bodied reds. Here are some suggestions to choose from based on your mood:
Boedecker Cellars 2007 Old Vine Pinot Gris $8.00
Domaine Lecomte 2006 Quincy $9.00
Boedecker Cellars 2008 Rosé $8.00
Bishop Creek Cellars 2006 Pinot Noir Barrel Selection $9.00
Domaine des Espiers 2007 Gigondas $9.50
Add comment June 3, 2009
Australia’s Hunter Valley: a report from down under on a weekend out …
This is an email we received from Phil last summer (7/22/08) when he was in Australia to interview for a job. Wine makes a great diversion … and these are some great tips if you’re looking for a wine country day trip outside of Sydney:
this past weekend i decided to escape the papal visit to sydney and swarms of 15 year old world youth day pilgrims for the Hunter Valley and a bit of a drive and wine tasting. the rest of sydney seemed to decide to do the same thing, but by staying on the outskirts i’d say i did alright… 5 top ranked wineries, 2.5 cases of wine to take home, a decent brewery hotel as a base, and a fast car to drive around in. no real complaints here in the end…
So a bit of a synopsis in links:
Some photos from the weekend http://www.flickr.com/photos/philmang/sets/72157606307475896/
The wineries I went to:
The first one was Kringlewood on Saturday at about 1130am after a
morning drive out into the edge of the valley. Saw the sign on my way
back towards town and stopped, looked at the book, saw that it was
well ranked and pulled in. All biodynamic vines, with delicious French
style wines. brought home a shiraz worth of hermitage, a chardonnay &
a botrytis chardonnay (very rare…) http://www.krinklewood.com/
the next stop was the most commercial of the wineries i visited, and
in many ways, the least enjoyable: http://www.keithtullochwine.com.au/
the shiraz was good, the rest were all decent, the ambiance cut it
down a lot… the view of the valley was wonderful
from there, i stopped in at blue tongue brewery and had a beer and pie
for lunch before heading on: http://www.bluetonguebrewery.com.au/
after lunch i headed up to Piggs Peake. An amazing boutique negotiant
in the same model as Sinnean in Oregon that I have collected so much
wine from, these guys make amazing stuff. They have fun with the 3
pigs line of naming, with the wines running form straw to sticks to
bricks in terms of intensity… I got to taste some pretty damned good
wine and fortified wine (they make loads of port and madeira style
fortified wines as well as standard desert wines) and had already
picked up a few bottles when the winemaker took myself and a few other
customers with similar interests back to taste a few of the barrel
Bricks wines… we had a bit of 08 Zin and 08 Shiraz… wow. i can
understand why the sell out of all of these wines at release… http://piggspeake.com/index2.html
almost done for the day on saturday… while wandering back into town
I stop at the cheese store to pick up some fixins for dinner. The
Hunter Valley Smelly Cheese Shop has a nice array of cheeses, and can
indeed be smelled from the parking lot. the cave doesn’t hurt matters
and neither does the antipasti fixings side of the house. http://www.huntervalleysmellycheeseshop.com.au/
a brief stop for tasting at the small winemakers shop — tasted
Margan, Little Wine Company & Andrew Thomas good stuff, a nice end to
a day of wine tasting, more things for the case… http://www.smallwinemakerscentre.com.au/wine_makers.php
back to the potters hotel & brewery to nap and watch a bit of tri-
nations rugby in the pub…and eat some of that cheese i collected
that was smelling up the car… http://www.pottersbrewery.com.au/ http://www.hunterbeer.com.au/
Good times, as it’s a local’s joint and the Wallabies won…
Sunday I headed out to drive back via the mountains, and happened to
stop at yet one last incredible winery with absolutely no planning –
it literally looked like my last chance to go to a winery on my way
out, so I stopped. Turns out to be an incredible place, where the
viticulturist lives on site and does the tastings, and where I got to
spend over an hour talking about the vines and wines and facility.
good times, great juice, and the only Tannat in all of australia (give
or take a few plants.) again, amazing. http://glenguinestate.com.au/
finally, The basic route map:
http://tinyurl.com/55hyug
it was a good time. could have used a bit of company perhaps (still could given the collection of vino i brought back.) hope all are well
Cheers
Phil
Add comment May 6, 2009
Food + Wine: Experiment with wine pairings
We’ve started a new Thursday bar special, where (in addition to our regular menu) we are offering a small bites menu with 4 or 5 items priced at $5 each. Aside from the fact that these small plates are delicious, each provides a little wine pairing fun. Here are several of the small plates from the first month of the special with suggested pairings. If you need some help pairing upcoming dishes, we’re happy to oblige …
Pear crostini with blue cheese mousse & candied walnuts $5
… bubbly can handle the salty & the sweet: Montesel Extra Dry Prosecco $9
Gougère with proscuitto & pea salad $5
… a richer white fits perfectly: Jean-Luc Colombo 2006 La Redonne $8.25
Warm potato salad with chorizo & poached egg $5
… be a rebel: Celler Tomas Cusine 2006 Vilosell $8.25
House chicken liver mousse pâté $5
… a match made in heaven: Domaine des Espiers 2007 Gigondas $9.50
Mushroom brie galette $5
… another match made in heaven: Château La Neuve 2005 Saint-Emilion $9
Spicy meatballs with tomato conserva & garlic toast $5
… fruit forward is the way to go: Planeta 2007 La Segreta Rosso $7.75
Enjoy & cheers!
Add comment May 6, 2009
A visit from Rocca delle Macie

Vito Candela (left) gets passionate about Chianti!
With blue skies abounding, last Tuesday was a perfect spring evening for our Rocca delle Macie tasting. Visiting us was Vito Candela, Vice-President of the Tuscan winery which is located in the heart of the Chianti Classico zone. I especially enjoyed this tasting, since I had just returned from Tuscany and stayed on the Rocca property, witnessing first-hand their impressive estate & facilities.

Two Portalis guests enjoy a taste of Tuscany
Rocca della Macie began with one man’s lifelong dream, of purchasing land and turning it into a world-class vineyard. Italo Zingarelli did just that over 35 years ago by purchasing “Le Macie” estate. His youngest son, Sergio now runs Rocca della Macie, and has begun his own legacy by bringing Rocca to a new level as one of the best quality Chianti’s in Tuscany.
Our charming Italian host, Vito entertained the group with interesting stories – everything from the history of Chianti wines to Italian culture (they’re lack of fondness for garlic). The wines themselves lived up to their reputation. Here is what we tasted:
ROCCA DELLE MACIE 2006 VERMENTINO – $16.50 Fresh and slightly fruity with floral notes and earthy minerality. A small percentage is barrel fermented which produces an elegant and balanced white.
ROCCA DELLE MACIE 2006 CHIANTI CLASSICO - $17 A blend of 90% Sangiovese, 5% Merlot and 5% Canaiolo aged 10mths in both Slavonian and French oak. A classic Chianti with juicy cherry flavors, medium spiciness and a soft finish.
ROCCA DELLE MACIE 2004 CHIANTI CLASSICO RISERVA - $28.50 One of the highlights of the evening was this riserva blend of 90% Sangiovese, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Merlot. Barrel-aged all in French oak for 2 years, then minimum 3mths in the bottle, this is a dark, rich and intense wine. Smoky tannins and dark cherry notes make for a complex Chianti to enjoy for years.
ROCCA DELLE MACIE 2005 MORELLINO DI SCANSANO - $17 A soft and fruit forward blend of Sangiovese 90% Cabernet 5% Merlot 5%. Expressive notes of violets, raspberry flavors and subtle tannins make this a wonderful choice for spicy dishes.
ROCCA DELLE MACIE 2001 FIZZANO RISERVA – $41 Produced exclusively from the Fizzano Estate and mostly from Sangiovese grapes. This Supertuscan is aged in both French oak barrels and large barrique, then one year in the bottle. Dark red fruit and with prominent tannins, this has great aging potential. SOLD OUT
ROCCA DELLE MACIE 2004 SANT’ALFONZO – $23 This 100% Sangiovese Chianti is one of the most prestigious crus from Rocca delle Macie. It is aged nearly a year in French oak barrels. Its smooth texture, rich red fruit and balanced acidity makes this one of the favorite wines at the winery.
To order these wines contact us at info@portaliswines.com. I highly recommend staying at Rocca delle Macie’s beautiful estate if you are ever in Tuscany: www.roccadellemacie.com

The tasting room at Rocca delle Macie
Add comment April 24, 2009
Food+Wine: Lamb Tagine
Lamb tagine is a lovely, aromatic dish originally from Morocco, but regularly seen incorporated into Spanish cuisine. With the cold, blustery weather we’ve been having, Chef Tracey felt like this yummy, warming, somewhat rich meal would still have appeal … and it has. The sweetness (though not too sweet) comes from the dates and honey. The richness comes from the lamb, a rich meat made richer by the cut (neck). And then there’s the sultry spiciness from the cinnamon, ginger, saffron & tumeric. It really is a delicious combination and it pairs beautifully with the Celler Tomas Cusine 2006 Vilosell, a blend of Tempranillo/Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot/Garnacha/Syrah from the Costers del Segre region of northeast Spain. Other red wines that would work well with spicier lamb dishes would be wines from the Southern Rhône, as well as a hearty Pinot Noir, like what you find from Oregon’s Willamette Valley: Bishop Creek Cellars 2006 Pinot Noir Barrel Selection $21 or for a splurge, try Domaine Serene 2005 Pinot Noir Evenstad Reserve $64. If you prefer a white for the above style dish, try a Riesling such a Weingut Seebrich 2006 Niersteiner Oelberg Riseling Spaetlese $19. Come check it out. It will be on the menu through the first week or so of April.
Contributor: Julie Howe
Add comment April 24, 2009
Special Sunday Tasting: Swiss Cheesemaker, Mike Glauser

Cheesemaker grating Belper Knolle to taste
Mike stopped by with cheese importer, Olivier Boye, on Friday to introduce himself and I knew he’d be a hit. His cheeses were excellent and on top of that he was personable, had a good sense of humor and the little traditioinal cap with the Swiss flag on it wouldn’t hurt. Plus, it’s fun when I get to speak German … and if you’re German, you’ve got to love Swiss German.

Cheesemaker, Mike Glauser, with Emmentaler in the foreground
The Glauser’s are third generation artisan cheese makers located in Bern, Switzerland. Together with other small, local, cheesemakers (Fromagerie Glauser, Fromagerie Jakob, Fromagerie Steinen & Fromagerie Belp), they created the association “Jumi Export” with the goal of showing real traditional Swiss cheeses to the outside world. For the American market, these cheeses should create a new association with what people think of as “Swiss cheese”.
Here is some information on the cheeses we tasted last Sunday:
EMMENTALER – raw cow’s milk; semi-hard to hard; aged 6-10 months (young) & 18-24 (aged) ~ both were available at the tasting so you could experience the difference. As the Swiss say, Emmentaler is a tradition and a way of life. I can concur that the German’s have the same opinion, with this cheese being a staple for my family growing up and for Julie and me when we lived there.
Notes from the cheesemaker:
Texture: elastic, non-sticky with fine to semi-fine crystals
Taste: delicate and mild (hay)
Flavors: slightly salty and milky, fresh butter and jelly
Odor: slightly spicy, pungent persistence (body)
Culinary note: the ultimate fondue cheese
Produced by: Master Cheese Maker Glauser, Bergkäserei; Oberhünigen, Switzerland
Wine/beer pairings: fruity beer (such as Belgian ales: Regenboog Wostynj Spicy Ale or La Chouffe Golden Ale) or rounder, fuller-bodied white wines such as Côte du Rhône Blanc or (not too oaky) Chardonnay such as Domaine de Vic 2005 Chardonnay (Vin de Pays d’Oc, France) $15
APPENBERGER – raw cow’s milk; semi-hard; aged 4-5 months (young) & 8-9 months (aged). This famous cheese hails from the Appenberger region. Its aroma is dominated by flowery notes from wild mountain flowers. The flavor of the cheese intensifies as it ages.
Notes from the cheesemaker:
Texture: smooth paste, supple and slightly sticky with little holes
Flavors: slightly salty, buttery and creamy. The palate will be stimulated by fresh butter and slightly acidic (sour/lactic) notes.
Culinary note: Appenberger lends itself to imaginative combinations. For example, with sliced fresh tomatoes or with prune or fig preserves. It is also very well suited for fondue.
Produced by: Master Cheese Maker Fromagerie Glauser; Oberhünigen, Switzerland
Wine pairings: a big Côte du Rhône such as Ogier 2005 Côte du Rhône Caves des Papes or a nice red from neighboring Vacqueyras, all spicy, earthy reds from the Southern Rhône Valley in France.
KNOSCHI – raw cow’s milk, chives, onions; semi-hard; aged 4 months
In the Vacherin Fribourgeois region, semi-hard cheeses are an old tradition. Knoschi is an original and very sought after semi-hard cheese embedded with onions and chives. The raw milk, artisan process and aging impart a dominant, beefy aroma which is in full harmony with onion and chive flavors.
Notes from the cheesemaker:
Texture: elastic paste, smooth and crisp
Flavors: taste of broth highlighted with chive/caramelized onion flavors
Culinary note: after 4 months of aging, this cheese is ready for fondue and shows enhanced characteristics with heating and melting
Produced by: Master Cheese Maker Fromagerie Glauser; Giffers (Freiburg), Switzerland
Wine pairings: this cheese has a lot of chivy, garlic flavors, so stick with a white such as Chenin Blanc or a nice Viognier/Roussanne blend such as Jean-Luc Colombo 2006 La Redonne $17.50, which is what we served at the tasting and is also available at the wine bar if you’d like to try a glass first.
BELPER KNOLLE – cow’s milk, garlic, pepper powder, Himalajasalt; semi-soft; aged 1 week or more. Around 17 years ago, the first “Belper Knolle” was made by hand and it is handmade to this day. The milk and garlic are also from Belp (where the name originates). The pepper is from the “Oberland” and the salt from the Himalayas.
Notes from the cheesemaker:
Texture: easy to spread, a light delicate consistency
Taste: slightly spicy with refreshing herbal background notes
Good to know: the intensity of this cheese is reduced when the pepper/salt is brushed off. At the tasting, Mike told customers to grate this cheese over pasta or risotto.
Produced by: Käserei Belp; Bern, Switzerland
Wine pairings: this is an acidic, herbal cheese, so it’s white all the way. Try a white from the Loire Valley such as Benedicte de Rycke 2005 Jasnières $28
The Belper Knolle sold out at the tasting. People loved it! I purchased some of Appenberger, which we melted and served over boiled red potatoes with a side salad. We paired it with a Jean-Luc Colombo declassified Cornas from the cellar. It was a delicious meal, especially since it’s still chilly weather here in Seattle. If you are interested in purchasing these cheeses, they are available or can be ordered at the following cheese counters: Big John’s PFI (ask for Donna), Village Market Thriftway, Magnolia Thriftway, The Cheese Cellar (near the Space Needle), DeLaurenti (Pike Place Market), some Whole Foods Markets.
Contributor: Jens Strecker
Add comment April 14, 2009
Profiteroles at home
Profiteroles are beautiful, festive pastries that make a delicious, fun, easy and versatile dessert. Here at the wine bar, we made the pastries in-house and then filled each little pastry with a scoop of homemade pine nut honey ice cream & served them with a chocolate espresso dipping sauce.
How to make Profiteroles at home:
• It’s quick: Buy cream puff pastry shells in the frozen food section of your local grocery. It’s not homemade, but it cuts prep down to nothing.
• It’s versatile: Fill the pastries with any ice cream that appeals or do an assortment so each pastry is a surprise. You can also change the dipping sauce to anything that appeals: chocolate espresso, caramel, raspberry or different flavored whipped creams, for example amaretto or frangelica, to add a nice fluffy accent to the festive finish. As well you can add salted nuts in with the ice cream … and so on. Use your imagination. If decide to use Chef Tracey’s Chocolate Espresso Dipping Sauce, you’ll need: 8oz finest bittersweet chocolate (chips or roughly chopped) • 1C heavy cream • ¼ C sugar • 1t instant espresso powder dissolved in 1t hot water. Heat cream and sugar to a simmer until sugar dissolves. Pour over chocolate chips/chunks. Add espresso and whisk until smooth. Hold warm in a water bath until serving time. To serve the profiteroles, heat the pastry shells per the directions. Let cool to handle. Then cut in half and use a melon scoop to fill with ice cream. Serve with a little ramekin of warm dipping sauce.
• It’s fun: The dessert has a broad range in terms of appeal. You can throw a birthday party bash for your kids or you can serve this to seduce your partner, feeding one another of course. If you go this route, don’t forget the dessert wine, with both ruby & tawny ports pair beautifully.
Contributor: Chef Tracey
Add comment April 14, 2009
With nice weather around the corner (hopefully), we’re heading into beer season. I’m thinking big fans of Stone (and there are plenty) are year round beer drinkers, but for many of our customers, warmer weather puts them in the mood. Something like what happens with rosé.