Chef Tracey’s Fall Food+Wine Pairings

Posted: Tuesday, November 03, 2009
PORK TENDERLOIN with parsnip purée, braised chard, golden raisin & pine nuts ($14) paired with Bishop Creek Cellars 2006 Pinot Noir Barrel Selection $9 glass / $21 per bottle

Pork is not only delicious, but it’s a very versatile meat with varying cuts and preparations that allow for very different dining experiences.  With that goes a wine versatility as well.  Pork pairs well with fuller-bodied whites, such as a Washington Viogner blend (Thurston Wolfe 2008 PGV $18), Oregon Pinot Gris (try: Spindrift Cellars 2008 Pinot Gris $18.50) or a Bordeaux Blanc (try: Chateau La Freynelle 2007 Bordeaux Blanc $13) as well as lighter-bodied reds such as Pinot Noir (as is the case with the above entrée currently on the menu) or even more medium-bodied reds with richer, fattier, braised pork preparations.  Go with a Southern Rhône blend (try: Saint Cosme 2008 Côte du Rhône $17) or even a smoother New World Syrah (try: Qupé 2007 Syrah $18 from the Central Coast, CA).  With pork dishes, you can go exploring with respect to wine.

Have fun!
Julie, Owner
Portalis Wines

Posted: Sunday, October 18, 2009
WILD MUSHROOMS & WINE
It’s peak season for mushroom foraging which inspired me to do the mushroom brie tart.  In the market right now, chantarelles (coming from southern Washington & Oregon) are looking beautiful.  I love the rich golden color and the nice, woodsy, earthy flavor which pairs well with the richness of the brie. The other mushrooms on the tart are crimini which have a nice deep rich flavor and beech mushrooms which add a slightly sweet, nutty flavor & delicate texture to the tart. 

Some ideas for cooking with fall mushrooms: creamy parmesean polenta with marsala-braised mushrooms (which will go on the menu in the next few weeks), a creamy mushroom soup (which you can purée and serve as a mushroom bisque topped with truffle oil & chive) or how about some mushroom risotto? Here’s my insider tip:  sautée your mushrooms with olive oil on a really high heat so that they have a nice sear & caramelized color and add them to the risotto for the last five minutes of cooking.  Finish with parmegiano reggioano & thyme.

Wine Pairing for wild mushrooms:
When you smell a bottle of Pinot Noir from Burgundy, the nose often has a mushroomy smell, making this a classic pairing (try:  Henri Delagrange 2006 Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Beaune $28).  You can also get earthy, musty, mushroomy flavors from Itailan Barolo (try:  Fontanafredda 2004 Barolo Serralunga D’Alba $69/SALE $ ), Barbaresco (try: Pelissero 2004 Nubiola Barbaresco $44) or for a more affordable wine, go with a Nebbiolo from Lombardy:  Conti Sertoli Salis 2006 Baccalit $19.

Cheers!
Chef Tracey

Posted:  Sunday, October 10, 2009
WIENERSCHNITZEL with warm German potato salad $18
… served with a glass of Weingut Graf von Schoenborn 2008 Sylvaner Kabinett $9 

Chef Tracey has been using the phrase comfort food a lot lately and nothing says comfort more (to Jens & many people) than Wienerschnitzel.  (By the way, Wien is German for Vienna, and Wienerschnitzel is a style of schnitzel originally from this part of Austria.)  Chef Tracey aced this one: a tender veal cutlet with a side of warm, creamy, fingerling potato salad.  And together with the wine pairing, Weingut Graf von Schoenborn 2008 Sylvaner Kabinett … it’s beautiful!  The wine varietal is Sylvaner, a grape grown in the Franken region of Germany, with lovely flavors of apples & pears. It is slightly off-dry with a solid acidity, allowing it to stand up to this rich meal. And for a little added touch, the bottle has the traditional bulbous bottom common in Germany for this type of wine (see top of photo).  Hope you can stop in to enjoy this while it’s on the menu.   

Cheers!
Julie, Co-Owner
Portalis Wines

Posted:  Sunday, September 27, 2009
Manilla clams with caramelized onion & bacon $13
Now that the weather is getting a littler chillier, a nice steamy bowl of clams has a lot of appeal.  With this dish, I like the saltiness of the bacon with the sweetness of the onion and the brininess of the clams.  I’m serving the clams with baguette to sop of the delicious, rich, buttery broth.  This dish pairs well with a broad spectrum of white wines.  The Ness 2008 Albariño (a classic Spanish fish wine from the northeastern region of Rias Baixas) has enough acidity to cut the fat of the bacon & butter.  A classic French bistro pairing would be the Château Lafont Menaut 2006 Pessac-Léognan which is a Bordeaux blanc that’s full flavored enough to handle the richness of the dish.  Or you could go all out rich and drink a glass of the Saintsbury 2007 Chardonnay, an oaky, buttery California Chardonnay, a wine that’s normally difficult to pair with food, but the buttery, bacony richness of these clams can hold up to it.

Cheers!
Chef Tracey

Spanish cuisine with wine pairing

Game hen with sherry, blood orange, olives & rose fingerling potato $15
I’ve been in the mood to cook a traditional Spanish dish and blood oranges looked really good at the market, so this dish was a nice fit.  This meal should evoke thoughts of coastal Spain where olive groves and orange trees are in abundance.  It’s a happy balance of citrus, salty and sweet and these three food elements are further enhanced by the Vilosell pairing. Celler Tomas Cusine 2006 Vilosell, from the Coster del Segre region of Spain northwest of Barcelona, is a very versatile, food enhancing wine.  It’s got nice acidity, so it balances the citrus in the dish, but it’s not so heavy that it overpowers the hen.  It’s a lovely, rustic food/wine pairing.

Cheers!
Chef Tracey

Posted Sunday, September 20, 2009 at www.portaliswines.com

Seasonal Foods: the Heirloom Tomato

Posted at www.portaliswines.com:  Sunday, August 16, 2009
The market is in full swing and heirloom tomatoes are starting to look good.  Just in case you don’t know the story behind an Heirloom tomato, “an heirloom plant, heirloom variety, or (especially in the UK) heirloom vegetable is a cultivar that was commonly grown during earlier periods in human history, but which is not used in modern large-scale agriculture. Many heirloom vegetables have kept their traits through open pollination, while fruit varieties such as apples have been propagated over the centuries through grafts and cuttings. The trend of growing heirloom plants in gardens has been growing in popularity in the United States and Europe over the last decade.” http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heirloom_plant  Heirlooms are traditionally sweeter & juicier than other tomatoes, and because so many different colors, textures and shapes make up the heirloom family, they are a beautiful addition to any summer salad.

Currently, I am using heirloom tomatoes on the menu for our soup selection: Heirloom tomato gazpacho with avocado.  Here’s the recipe:  Cut the following into a large dice … 4 medium heirloom tomatoes, 1 English cucumber (peeled & seeded), 1 Walla Walla onion, 1 bell pepper, 1 green bell pepper, 1 jalapeno, half a bunch of cilantro, pinch of fresh oregano, 2 cloves of garlic (diced), ¼ cup red wine vinegar, ¼ cup extra virgin olive oil.  Mix all ingredients in a big bowl and then purée in a food processor until smooth. Season with salt and cracked black pepper. Garnish with avocado (large dice).  The acid in the tomatoes can wine pairing a little tricky, so I hit Ross (Who’s Ross?) up for some tips:  sparkling wine such as Prosecco (try: Toffoli NV Prosecco glass $8.75/bottle $20) or a fruity rosé (don’t get too dry; try: Fuente Del Conde 2008 Rosado $19/bottle), or an off-dry Riesling (try: Efeste 2008 Evergreen Riesling glass $8/bottle $18.50) would all work well.

Because of the Heirloom tomatoes, it’s also my favorite time of year to have BLTs.  I wait all summer for Heirlooms to come out for my BLTs.  Since it’s my favorite sandwich, we’re going to start featuring an Heirloom tomato BLT on toasted country bread this week. Pairing on this gets a little easier as you have some nice salt & fat from the bacon to offset the acidic tomato.  Ross suggested that you go with a little fuller-bodied white, such as a Bordeaux Blanc (try: Château Lafont Menaut 2006 Pessac-Léognan glass $9/bottle ) or a lower-oak Chardonnay such as (try: Kumeu River 2005 Chardonnay from New Zealand which is currently on sale REG $40/SALE $19.99.   

One last tip which is not on the menu: Heirloom tomatoes make a beautiful Caprese salad.  All of the sizes & colors mixed with fresh mozzarella & basil, finished with extra virgin olive oil, sea salt and cracked pepper.  A delicious summer salad.

Enjoy & cheers!
Chef Tracey
originally posted on the Portalis website on Sunday, August 16, 2009

Wine Pairings for Seafood

In honor of the Ballard Seafood Fest which took place at the end of July, here are some seafood & wine pairing tips:

Crustaceons (ex: Dungeness Crab)
These little guys tend to be higher in fat and served with lots of butter, so go with a richer white such as Burgundy, especially Chablis (try: Pascal Bouchard 2006 Grande Reserve Chablis $22) or a richer New World white (try: Airfield 2007 Thunderbolt Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon $16.50) or for a little bit crisper white (and to be adventurous) go for an Austrian Gruener Veltliner, a food-friendly white with tropical fruit flavors and the zing of white pepper (try: Leth 2008 Gruener Veltliner Steinagrund $20).

Lean fish (ex: Sole)
This type of fish tends to be delicate and its flavors can be overwhelmed, so go easy on it with a light, crisp white such as Albariño, the classic Spanish fish wine from the NW region of Rias Baixas (try: Nessa 2008 Albariño $16) or a nice Sauvignon Blanc from the Loire Valley, another classic white fish pairing (try: Philippe Raimbault 2007 Sancerre Apud Sariacum $34).

Medium-fat fish (ex: Halibut)
Halibut is firmer and a little richer in flavor and would pair beautifully with the buttery, toasty flavors of a well-done California Chardonnay (try: Heitz Cellar 2007 Chardonnay $23) or a dryer style Chenin Blanc (try: Benedicte De Rycke 2004 Jasnieres $28).

High-fat fish (ex: Salmon & Tuna)
Both of these are fatty, full-flavored, relatively firm fish that call for a wine that can hold its own against these stronger flavors.  We recommend a full-bodied white, a rosé or a lighter red.  A medium-bodied Spanish Tempranillo would be delicious (try: Hacienda Don Ramon 2006 Rioja $17) or a Pinot Noir from Oregon (try: Walnut City Wineworks 2007 Pinot Noir $22).

Enjoy the Seafood Fest and stop by for glass of wine and something good to eat (try: Porcini-encrusted scallops or Shrimp with chorizo, garlic & butter).  Both are on our menu right now.

Cheers!
Julie, Co-Owner
Portalis Wines

4th of July: BBQ Ribs with Wine/Beer Pairings

Chef Tracey just made these for Father’s Day and they were crazy good, so I hit her up for her insider tips to pass on and she flat out gave me her recipes.  So if you’re responsible for the food on the Fourth, here goes …

Chef Tracey’s BBQ Baby Back Ribs
It’s all about getting them to be moist and fall off the bone.  In the south (where Chef Tracey has cooked), the classic way to prepare ribs is to boil them and then finish them in a smoker.  She thinks it’s easier and more flavorful, though, to use a dry rub and then wrap them tightly in foil and put them in a 250 degree oven for 4-5 hours.  The beautiful thing about this is it can be done a day or two ahead of time. When you’re ready to serve, you finish the ribs by slathering them in your favorite BBQ sauce and putting them on a hot grill for 8 minutes or so until they’re bubbly and ready to eat.  Ingredients for the dry rub:  1/2 cup salt, 1/2 sugar, 3T each: chili powder, cumin, garlic powder, onion powder, 1T smoked paprika, 1t ground mustard.

Chef Tracey’s Red Bliss Potato Salad
Serve up the ribs with this on the side …
Boil 1 lb Red Bliss potatoes (tip … 1T of salt & 1t sugar in the water will keep the potato peels bright red).  Let cool to room temperature then cut to desired size.  Add 4 hard boiled eggs (cut to desired size), 1/2 C diced celery, 2 chopped shallots, 2T snipped chives, 2T chopped dill.  For the dressing, mix 1/2 C mayo, 1T Dijon mustard, 1T whole grain mustard, 1t celery salt, 1t apple cider vinegar.  Add to potato mixture and serve.

Wine & Beer Pairings:
There are three ways to go with BBQ ribs …
1 – Beer (tried and true … can’t go wrong)  We suggest a pilsner as its tartness offsets the sweetness of the ribs beautifully.  Germans are the masters.  Try Radeberger Pilsner ($4/case $3.20) from Dresden, in the southeast corner of Germany near the Polish/Czech borders.  The Czech’s would argue theirs is better and they might be right.  Try Lev Lion Lager ($4/case $3.20).
2 – Rosé  A wonderfully refreshing summer drink and it’s amazingly flexible with regard to food pairing.  The cold, fruity, pleasant acidity of this festive drink goes well with everything from salads, to chicken to grilled meats, and it can even handle the spicy sweetness of BBQ sauce.  Try Domaine Saint Roch Les Vignes 2008 Rosé $16 (Provence) or if you’d like something local, try Saviah Cellars 2008 Rosé $14, Walla Walla rosé from Sangiovese.
3 - Zinfanel If you’re hankering for a bigger red, Zinfanel — with it’s big dark fruit (blackberry, boysenberry, black cherry) flavors with hints of licorice, cinnamon & black pepper — hand hold it’s own against the sauce.  Try Easton 2007 Zinfandel $17/case $13.60 (Wine Enthusiast 90 points).  It’s a great wine for the price especially if you’re serving a crowd.

Happy 4th of July!
Julie, Owner
Portalis Wines

Wines to pair with grilled meats

From Portalis Wine Shop + Wine Bar:  Food + Wine

The weather has been beautiful and we know you’re grilling because I had plenty of time over Memorial Day Weekend to compile this list of wine pairings for all kinds of grilled meats.  Hope this gives you some fun, reasonably priced suggestions for the next time you’re cooking out:

Chicken – The light meat of the chicken goes best with lighter, crisp wines as well as reds with low tannins and nice, bright acidity:
Neil Ellis 2007 Sauvignon Blanc (South Africa) $20/case $16
Ruggeri Corsini 2006 Barbera d’Alba (Piedmont, Italy) $20/case $16

Ribs – Here you’re looking for rich, full-bodied reds and dry to slightly off dry whites.  Think Zin, Italian whites or dry Riesling:
Nota Bene 2005 Syrah (Washington State) $32/case $25.60
Fattoria Laila 2007 Verdicchio Dei Castelli Di Jesi Classico Superiore (Marche, Italy) $13/case $10.40
Four Vines 2006 Maverick Zinfandel (Amador County, CA) $28/case $22.40

Steaks – Seek big wines with lots of flavor and medium tannins; Cabs, Syrah and Malbec are all a perfect complement:
Beckmen Vineyards 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon (Ynez Valley, CA) $27/case $21.60
Luigi Bosca 2005 Malbec Single Vineyard (Mendoza, Argentina) $22/case $17.60

Pork – You’re looking for straight-forward wines to not over power the light meat of the pork. Go with Spanish reds and reds from Montepulciano and Chianti:
Centorame 2006 Montepulciano D’Abruzzo (Abruzzo, Italy) $21/case $16.80
Legado Munoz 2007 Garnacha (Tierra de Castilla, Spain) $11.50/case $9.20

Salmon – Richer flavored fish needs a richer flavored wine, but with low tannins. Pinot Noir is perfect:.
Byron 2007 Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley, CA) $25.50/case $20.40
Isabel 2008 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough, NZ) $16.50/case $13.20

Enjoy & cheers!
Ross, Server (Fri, Sat, Sun)

Food+Wine: On the Menu … Frog Legs

It’s traditional French bistro fare with Chef Tracey’s most recent addition to the menu.  Her art for preparing the frog legs is similar to brining.  She marinates them in buttermilk, Worcestershire sauce & tobasco.  Frogs legs can be tough, but this marinating process makes the meat tender.  After about a day and a half in the marinade, the meat is so tender that it flakes when fried.  In France, you’d most likely have your frog legs sautéed, but Chef Tracey is serving these frog legs fried with a side of whole-grain mustard-tarragon potato salad for a nice seasonal twist with some American flair. 

This dish pairs beautifully with a broad range of wines, including white, rosé and more medium-bodied reds.  Here are some suggestions to choose from based on your mood:

Boedecker Cellars 2007 Old Vine Pinot Gris $8.00
Domaine Lecomte 2006 Quincy $9.00
Boedecker Cellars 2008 Rosé $8.00
Bishop Creek Cellars 2006 Pinot Noir Barrel Selection $9.00
Domaine des Espiers 2007 Gigondas $9.50

Food + Wine: Experiment with wine pairings

We’ve started a new Thursday bar special, where (in addition to our regular menu) we are offering a small bites menu with 4 or 5 items priced at $5 each.  Aside from the fact that these small plates are delicious, each provides a little wine pairing fun.  Here are several of the small plates from the first month of the special with suggested pairings. If you need some help pairing upcoming dishes, we’re happy to oblige …

Pear crostini with blue cheese mousse & candied walnuts $5
    … bubbly can handle the salty & the sweet: Montesel Extra Dry Prosecco $9
Gougère with proscuitto & pea salad $5
    … a richer white fits perfectly: Jean-Luc Colombo 2006 La Redonne $8.25
Warm potato salad with chorizo & poached egg $5
    … be a rebel: Celler Tomas Cusine 2006 Vilosell $8.25
House chicken liver mousse pâté $5
    … a match made in heaven: Domaine des Espiers 2007 Gigondas $9.50
Mushroom brie galette $5
    … another match made in heaven: Château La Neuve 2005 Saint-Emilion $9
Spicy meatballs with tomato conserva & garlic toast $5 
    … fruit forward is the way to go: Planeta 2007 La Segreta Rosso $7.75

Enjoy & cheers!

Food+Wine: Lamb Tagine

Lamb tagine is a lovely, aromatic dish originally from Morocco, but regularly seen incorporated into Spanish cuisine. With the cold, blustery weather we’ve been having, Chef Tracey felt like this yummy, warming, somewhat rich meal would still have appeal … and it has.  The sweetness (though not too sweet) comes from the dates and honey. The richness comes from the lamb, a rich meat made richer by the cut (neck). And then there’s the sultry spiciness from the cinnamon, ginger, saffron & tumeric.  It really is a delicious combination and it pairs beautifully with the Celler Tomas Cusine 2006 Vilosell, a blend of Tempranillo/Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot/Garnacha/Syrah from the Costers del Segre region of northeast Spain. Other red wines that would work well with spicier lamb dishes would be wines from the Southern Rhône, as well as a hearty Pinot Noir, like what you find from Oregon’s Willamette Valley:  Bishop Creek Cellars 2006 Pinot Noir Barrel Selection $21 or for a splurge, try Domaine Serene 2005 Pinot Noir Evenstad Reserve $64.  If you prefer a white for the above style dish, try a Riesling such a Weingut Seebrich 2006 Niersteiner Oelberg Riseling Spaetlese $19.  Come check it out.  It will be on the menu through the first week or so of April.
 
Contributor:  Julie Howe

Profiteroles at home

 Profiteroles are beautiful, festive pastries that make a delicious, fun, easy and versatile dessert.  Here at the wine bar, we made the pastries in-house and then filled each little pastry with a scoop of homemade pine nut honey ice cream & served them with a chocolate espresso dipping sauce. 

How to make Profiteroles at home: 
• It’s quick:  Buy cream puff pastry shells in the frozen food section of your local grocery.  It’s not homemade, but it cuts prep down to nothing.
• It’s versatile: Fill the pastries with any ice cream that appeals or do an assortment so each pastry is a surprise.  You can also change the dipping sauce to anything that appeals: chocolate espresso, caramel, raspberry or different flavored whipped creams, for example amaretto or frangelica, to add a nice fluffy accent to the festive finish.  As well you can add salted nuts in with the ice cream … and so on.  Use your imagination.  If decide to use Chef Tracey’s Chocolate Espresso Dipping Sauce, you’ll need: 8oz finest bittersweet chocolate (chips or roughly chopped) • 1C heavy cream • ¼ C sugar • 1t instant espresso powder dissolved in 1t hot water. Heat cream and sugar to a simmer until sugar dissolves.  Pour over chocolate chips/chunks.  Add espresso and whisk until smooth.  Hold warm in a water bath until serving time.  To serve the profiteroles, heat the pastry shells per the directions.  Let cool to handle.  Then cut in half and use a melon scoop to fill with ice cream.  Serve with a little ramekin of warm dipping sauce.
• It’s fun:  The dessert has a broad range in terms of appeal.  You can throw a birthday party bash for your kids or you can serve this to seduce your partner, feeding one another of course.  If you go this route, don’t forget the dessert wine, with both ruby & tawny ports pair beautifully.

Contributor:  Chef Tracey