O’Shea Scarborough Winery (Seattle)

A cool label goes a long way in my book and these guys have some of the best labels in town. They range from edgy to mystical to beautiful with sort of a historic depth. (They also use the big, sturdy bottles that make the wine feel important in your hands. Nothing says big, worthy (gift) wine like this type of bottle.) But the label isn’t what’s important … it’s the wine, and these guys are producing some notably outstanding local wines.

O’Shea Scarborough Winery is a partnership between Travis Scarborough and Darryn O’Shea. Travis and Darryn both called on us at Portalis in their former lives as wine reps for local Seattle distributors. I remember when Travis stopped by with one of his first vintages – no label, no approvals, just a bottle of Washington Syrah for Jens and Gina to try. Jens said it was good, but I’m not sure at the time that I realized they were going to make a go of it.

Their winery started in a garage (for real), and for more on their garagiste roots, check out this interview from 2006. They have upped the ante since then, moving to a grown-up facility in Tukwila. As well, they are past just having a bottle of red, producing an impressive array of varietals, including reds, whites and a dessert wine.  I can tell Jens likes these wines and so I asked what makes them different.  He said that for their first vintage, they are “pretty darn impressive wines”.  He said that most of the time when he tastes first vintage Washington wines they are fine, but they all sort of taste the same.  These, though, ”have good acidity, balance and are pretty complex, with well-integrated oak.  It’s a promising beginning.”  Here’s Jens’ take on their lineup:

O’Shea Scarborough 2007 Semillon
Red Mountain, WA; $22
We currently serve this wine by the glass at the wine bar & people love it.  Wonderful pear and melon flavors with some citrus. Great acidity. A good sipper.

O’Shea Scarborough 2007 Proprietors Chardonnay
Horse Heaven Hills, WA; $34
Vibrant citrus fruit combined with toast and vanilla flavors. Excellent Chardonnay.

O’Shea 2007 Riesling “Cease & Desist”
Dineen Vineyard, Yakima Valley, WA
Bright & dry, German-style, good sipping acidity, good minerality.  Good future.  Store up to 2 years.

O’Shea Scarborough 2005 “The Immortal” Syrah
Columbia Valley, WA; Reg $38/Sale $34.50
Dark fruit, with espresso and coffee notes. Medium- to full-bodied, well-balanced and elegant.

O’Shea Scarborough 2006 Proprietors Cabernet Sauvignon
Yakima Valley, WA; $40
Black currant, cassis, dark fruit. Complex, elegant, with fine tannins on the finish.

O’Shea Scarborough 2007 Eiswein
Yakima Valley, WA; $34
One of the best WA “Eisweine” we have tasted. If you are interested in tasting this sweet dessert wine, grab it as we only have 1 bottle left.

Try these out if you get a chance.  They are excellent examples of what can come out of Washington State.

Contributor:  Julie Howe

VIN SANTO (Tuscany, Italy)

Contributer: Gina Gregory

A view of Tacinaia property in Pistoia, Tuscany.

Last spring I had the rare privilege to travel to Italy and visit some of their most celebrated wine regions, including Piedmont, Tuscany and Veneto.  The cool factor is that I got to tag along with my friend Ari Manzin, owner of Bianco-Rosso Imports of Seattle. Ari makes this trip annually with the objective of visiting as many producers from his portfolio as he can within a two week period.  Naturally, I was like…sign me up!

Winemaker Lorenzo Lunardi talks to us about Vin Santo.

One of the wineries we visited was the charming family of Azienda Agricola Tacinaia.  Located in the hills west of Florence and near the beautiful town of Pistoia. Tacinaia is a family owned-operated winery whose only export is Vin Santo.  Vin Santo is the famed dessert wine of Tuscany, often golden-amber in color, intoxicating aromas, and silky texture.  This was such a treat for me, as I’ve always enjoyed Vin Santo, but had never been this close to the source. 

If you have never tried Vin Santo before, you must put it on your list of wines to drink in 2009. The translation of Vin Santo is literally “saints’ wine” or “holy wine”, no explanation needed.  The Tuscan version is the most famous, but other regions produce their version in Umbria, Trentino-Adige and Veneto. Tacinaia uses Trebbiano and Malvasia Bianca in their Vin Santos, and age them a minimum of 3 years.  Lorenzo Lunardi, third generation winemaker for Tacinaia, took us through the maze of little “cabins” (as we affectionately called them) where the Vin Santo lay resting and aging.  We noticed that the barrels seemed to be damp on the outside, and Lorenzo explained the moisture was important so the barrels wouldn’t dry out. The highlight was tasting newly pressed Vin Santo, from the honey-sweet to the nutty-dry style (which I preferred).  After our tour of their property, we were invited over to Lorenzo’s parents, to enjoy a rustic Tuscan meal.  At dinner we found out that not only does his family produce Vin Santo, but they make red & white table wine (only available to the locals), their own charcuterie (in the parent’s basement), olive oil, limoncello, and an irresistible walnut liqueur. The meal was graciously prepared by Lorenzo’s mother and included such delights as lardo, homemade pasta bolognese, rabbit, pheasant, and roasted veggies. I wish I could post all my photos from that meal, but I think you get the idea.  It was an amazing evening and one I will not soon forget!

A family dinner at the home of the Lunardi's.

 

Azienda Agricola Tacinaia 2001 Vin Santo del Empolese (available by the glass or bottle at Portalis ).

 

MAKING VIN SANTO
During the months of October-November the grapes are hand-picked and hung from the rafters of an airy dry attic (or room) for 3-6 months. Once dried, the grapes are pressed and the juice, combined with a madre (a small remnant of residue from a previous batch) is poured into small oak or chestnut caratelli (small cigar shaped barrels) for fermentation.  The caratelli are not filled all the way, but a little room is left in the barrel to allow oxidation, which is a part of the aging process.  During the aging process, the wine produces a nutty-caramel characteristic and deep golden color. After the initial fermentation the caratelli are sealed and placed under the roof of the winery, sometimes as long as ten years. Vin santo is to be enjoyed after dinner along with cantuccis (almond biscuits) or in the case of dry Vin Santos, as an aperitif.

Recommended  Vin Santos
Azienda Agricola Tacinaia Vin Santo Del Empolese – 500ml $27
Azienda Agricola Tacinaia Vin Santo Del Chianti – 500ml $27
Villa Artimino Del Carmignano – 500ml $32
Poggio Salvi De Chianti – 375ml $35
Mannuci Droandi Del Chianti – 375ml $47
*Please contact us  if you are interested in purchasing any of these wines